About the
food...
The food at
Aubergine is unashamedly French with strong influences from
Southwest France (Gascony) and
New England. The first
Aubergine (1979-1988) was a summer only restaurant that relied on
local providers and local staff for its survival. What is now the
norm for finding and buying great foodstuffs was new to people
going out to truly dine at that time. Great restaurants grew up in
the both population centers and in small towns as the customers
became more European in their search for great times and great
places. It became a life style and a life for many who looked for
more freedom and were willing to take risks. The risks weren’t
always financial. Often they came in the form of new ideas, new
products or new cooking methods. It is important to stay within
some boundaries since new isn’t always better and some
combinations can’t be improved.
About the
wines...
The wines
at the Aubergine (1996-2003), were French and American because I
am an American born doing my version of French food using
“mis-en-place” that would be at home in any great commercial
kitchen. The wines need to have characters that matched the food,
what is now called food pairings is little more than common sense.
If the dish is delicate, then Champagne or Alsatian would be a
choice and if the dish is strongly flavored then a full bodied red
makes good sense. My wine mentor, Arnold Bayard, who was the
Maitre of the Philadelphia Commanderie de Bordeaux, would simply
have said that “a good wine is any wine that you like and don’t
let anyone tell you differently.” Most true wine lovers don’t
drink labels but do drink wine. The test of a great wine is not
only its overall presentation but its price as well. So, at both
versions of Aubergine I looked for, and still do, for
price-quality.
This is
one of the last menus prepared at Aubergine in Portland, Maine.
STARTERS AND SALADS
-
Creamy
Onion Soup with Tarragon
-
Duck Liver
Pate with Chutney of Local Blueberries and Chocolate Peppers
-
Coquilles
St. Jacques with Mushrooms, White Wine and Maine Mussels
-
Lamb
Sausage “en Croute” with Chive and Horseradish Sabayon
-
Salad of
Ripe Avocado and Locally Smoked Trout
-
Warm Mango
and Crispy Duck Crackling Salad with Ginger and Soy
-
Salad with
Endive, Roasted Tomatoes and Roasted Applewood Bacon
-
Green
Salad with Mustard Vinaigrette
MAIN COURSES
-
Pan-fried
Maine Flounder with Saffron Sabayon
-
Roasted
Maine Jumbo Diver Scallops with Caper Aioli
-
Duck
Breast with Ginger and Pears
-
Braised
Sweetbreads with Mushrooms and Sage
-
Brined and
Grilled Pork Loin with Mixed Peppercorns
-
Grilled
and Roasted Lamb with Red Wine Caramel and French Mushrooms
-
Grilled
Rump Sirloin with Red Leek Béarnaise
WINES
-
Sparkling
Wine – Mumm Cuvee Napa Brut NV (USA)
-
Champagne
– de Venoge Brut NV (France)
-
Champagne
– Pol Roger Brut NV (France)
-
Chardonnay
– Silverado`99 (USA)
-
Chardonnay
– Beringer 00 (USA)
-
Riesling –
‘Eroica” Dr. Loosen – Chateau Ste. Michelle `NV (USA)
-
Sauvignon
Blanc – “Les Fumees Blanches” `00 (France)
-
Pinot Gris Reserve `99
Trimbach (France)
-
Pouilly –
Fuisse – Laboure-Roi `00 (France)
-
Meursault
– Joseph Matrot `00 (France)
-
Meursault
–“en la Barre” Jobard `99 (France)
-
Zinfandel
– “Old Vines’” Renwood `00 (USA)
-
Petite
Sirah – Foppiano `00 (USA)
-
Temperanillo – EXP R.H. Phillips `99 (USA)
-
Cabernet
Sauvignon - Justin `00 (USA)
-
Cabernet
Sauvignon – Beaulieu Vineyards “Rutherford”
`98 (USA
)
-
Chateauneuf du Pape – Chateau de Mont Redon `00 (France)
-
Sancerre
Rouge – La Croix du Roy `00 (France)
-
Mercurey –
“Vielles Vignes” Brintet `00 (France)
-
Auxey-Duresses – Roulet `99 (France)
-
Cotes du
Rhone – “Parallel 45” Jaboulet-Aine `00 (France)
-
Gigondas –
Cayron `00 (France)
-
Vacqueyras
– Domaine Du Mas Bouquet `00 (France)
-
Cote de
Brouilly – Domaine de la Voute des Crozes `00 (France)
-
Moulin –a
–Vent - Domaine Diochon `01 (France)
-
Cotes de
Bourg – Chateau Labadie `00 (France)
-
Cahors –
Clos La Coutale `00 (France)
-
Sauternes
– Maison Nicolas `00 (France)
-
Barsac –
Chateau Roumieu Lacoste - `98 (France)
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